There is more information on the topics listed below:
- Jumbo Boring Bar
- One Boring Bar with 3 Reach Cutting Capabilities
- 3/4 inch Dual Purpose Boring Bar
- Swivel Assemblies
- Backrest designed to fit any lathe
- Laser Measuring System
- Carbide Cutter Assembly
- DVD In-Depth Hollowing Techniques-The Easy Way DOWNLOAD
- DVD Bowl Basics DOWNLOAD
Jumbo Boring Bar
The Jamieson, 1 1/8 inch diameter, Jumbo Boring Bar needs to use the bent swivel holder. It has a tenon reduced to ¾ inch so it is compatible with the Jamieson stabilizing handle. The Jumbo Boring Bar allows deeper hollowing and stability while extended out over the tool rest. Large scale vessels up to 17 inches tall can be hollowed without vibration problems. The Jumbo Boring Bar is 20 inches long.
An ongoing difficulty of woodturning has been the ergonomics of getting the hollowing tool into the vessel. Traditionally, a turner would have to bend over the lathe during hollowing. This position is often hard on the back and can cause damage to back and neck muscles over time. Another option was to sit on the lathe bed to hold the boring bar. This problem is further antagonized by the need for proper tool placement to achieve a perfect finish. It was this problem that led Lyle to create the Jamieson Hollow Form Turning System for safer, in-control hollowing that is fun, too.
The system creates a secondary backrest behind the main tool rest which simplifies the hollowing process. A turner can stand beside the lathe and gently guide the cutter into the vessel with fingertip control. No more white knuckling it when you get 8 to 10 inches dangling off the tool rest to do the bottom inside of a vessel. No more sitting on top of your lathe. No more fear of catches. This system takes both the mental and physical stresses out of hollow form turning. It’s all about the fun! It adds an element of total control not achieved with other tools. It greatly improves safety and prevents catches.
The system removes any twisting force common to bent tools not supported in this manner. The fingertip control allows thinner forms and smooth inside surfaces even when doing a piece with voids.
Here it is: deep hollow turnings with no more stress, no more catches, no more while knuckling, and no more funnels made from going through the side of your piece. It is so easy to use; it is the stability concept that makes it work so well. It really makes hollow forms fun.
One Boring Bar with 3 Reach Capabilities
The ¾ inch diameter, 17 inch long dual purpose boring bar has the following options to allow access to any shape hollow form turning.
The top bar has the straight swivel assembly.
The middle bar has the bent swivel assembly.
The bottom bar has the straight swivel assembly in the opposite end of the bar with the 45 degree angled hole.
¾ Inch Dual Purpose Boring Bar
The boring bar has a dual function. It has a hole in both ends for the swivel tip cutter assembly.
This gives you a straight boring bar on one end and a bent type boring bar on the other end. Just flip the bar end to end.
Above are the two swivel assemblies, one straight and one bent. The bent assembly is often used in the standard 3/4 inch boring bar. The bent swivel allows greater access inside the shoulder area of a hollow form. The bent swivel is capable of reaching inside of most traditional bulbous shapes through small openings.
“D” Stabilizing Handle
Lyle uses a “D” shaped handle torque arrest method because it spreads out the considerable twisting forces with a broad brush. When the cutter is positioned around to the left to undercut a shoulder or reach into that hard to reach spot through a small hole, the torquing forces can get intense. Lyle’s back rest and handle eliminates the stress. Lyle wants the fingertip control to clean up tool marks and smooth the inside contour of the vessel. It can’t get any easier. The Jamieson system allows you to stand comfortably in front of the lathe with fingertip control to reach any desired hollow form shape. No need to get a stiff neck and sore back leaning over the lathe looking into the entry hole. No need to sit on the lathe and hang onto the handle with a death grip. It is all about the fun. You do not need to work hard hollowing any more. An ongoing difficulty of woodturning has been the ergonomics of getting the hollowing tool into the vessel. Traditionally, a turner would have to bend over the lathe during hollowing. This position is often hard on the back and can cause damage to back and neck muscles over time. This problem is further antagonized by the need for proper tool placement to achieve a perfect finish. It was this problem that led Lyle to create the Jamieson Hollow Form Turning System for safer, in-control hollowing that is fun, too.
The backrest supports and stabilizes the handle. This backrest allows hollow form turning with no torquing or twisting forces that exist with handheld boring bars. There is a backrest model designed to fit any lathe from minis to full size lathes, long or short beds.
Laser Measuring System
Here are excerpts from an article I wrote for American Woodturner magazine about lasers.
“Red Hot” Laser Measuring: Accurate, fast, and fun, but how do we use it?
Lasers, lasers, lasers, everyone is talking about lasers! Lasers help measure hollow form wall thickness. Lasers have more uses and provide exciting technical short cuts to understand problems such as measuring the bottom of bowls while using coring systems, or showing the shape and depth of the inside bottom contour of any turned form, even though the waste block area. There are many methods of measuring the wall thickness of hollow forms; many have been around for quite some time. I didn’t get too excited about the old measuring systems because they had limitations and I didn’t want to work within any set of parameters that would limit my creativity. Some of the new measuring systems also have limitations. I want to open up possibilities, not limit them.
My laser system can be used to measure anything, any place, any wood, any thickness desired, tiny Christmas ornaments, or huge vessels. It doesn’t impede the tool movement to get into those hard to reach places you have been dreaming of creating.
The whole idea of the laser is really simple. You set the laser light so that the beam of light passes by the cutting tip at the distance you want your wall thickness. The “gap” or distance between the light and the cutter is your wall thickness. (See Illustration 1) While the light shines on top of the hollow form, the cutting tip is hogging away wood inside the vessel. When the laser shines around on the side of the vessel, slow down and watch your cutting pace. As the light no longer shines on the turning, it skips off the edge of the form and shines on the floor, you stop cutting! The set gap between the light and the cutter is now the desired wall thickness. Go back lightly now and smooth away any tool marks without reducing wall thickness any further.
To set the laser, lock down all supporting hardware so that all you have to move for an adjustment is the bracket holding the laser. Now all future adjustments can be made easily by moving or swiveling the laser holding bracket at the end of the tubing that supports it.
To prepare for measuring with the laser system, the first step is to set the boring bar at the angle that you need to get through the little entry hole and put the cutting tip in a position to cut. Note the angle of the boring bar assembly. Pull the boring bar out of the vessel and support the boring bar on the front and back stabilizing tool rest at the same angle that is needed to cut. If you set the laser at one boring bar position and go into the vessel and cut with the boring bar swung around at a different angle you will get a false measurement. With the boring bar supported on both tool rests, you can now position the laser to measure perpendicularly, or at 90 degrees through the wall. In a hollow form or deep sided bowl the standard caliper won’t reach the bottom contours. It is necessary to keep the measuring at right angles or 90 degrees to the surface at the point where the measurement occurs. If you measure at an angle through the wall thickness at more or less than 90 degrees, you will get a false reading. Figure A above shows the difficulty keeping the perpendicularity with regular calipers. Now the laser measuring process uses the laser and the cutter as measuring points in contrast to the calipers. The gap in the calipers is the same as the gap used by the laser. The success in measuring accurately is dependent on measuring straight through or perpendicular to the wall. I use the lines on a plastic card as an aid to show me where to adjust the laser light. The line drawn near the edge on the business card is my wall thickness and the arrow line indicates the direction that would measure perpendicular through the wall. The star on the card is the laser position. (See Illustration 3) Now place the card along the outside of the hollow form where you will need to hollow and at the angle needed to measure perpendicularly. Move the card from the work, keeping it at the same angle, and place the card next to the cutting tip. Move the laser holding bracket to shine the laser light dot on the star on the card. The cutting tip is inside the vessel and the light will be outside the thickness. You are ready to hollow.
As with any of the other measuring methods, the measurement must be close to perpendicular to the side of the vessel. The position of the laser in relationship to the cutting edge must be kept perpendicular. The laser needs to be moved periodically depending on the shape of the vessel. See Illustration 3 above to see an example of the positions I would put the laser in to measure accurately. The setting of the laser with the card helper only takes a few seconds with one hand on the laser holding bracket and one hand on the card. Now measuring is easier, faster, a lot faster, and accurate, plus a lot more fun. Maybe it’s not fair for those using the laser, since they can do hollow forms in half the time. Does that mean they make twice as much money if they sell their work, and have twice as much fun?
Let’s explore even more exciting uses for the laser. There is the inside bottom of the vessel to deal with, which is hidden in the waste wood of the face plate. You can reset the laser to do bottoms so the gap between the laser and the cutting tip is zero. (See Illustration 4) Now with the cutting tip down in the middle of the bottom of the vessel you can see exactly where the inside depth is. Draw a line on the outside of waste block at the edge of the laser. That’s the bottom!! No more attempting to measure the inside depth and extrapolate it somehow to the outside. Is that cool or what! No more cutting a hole in the bottom when you finish the foot of the form.
Hang on! It gets even better!! With the laser still set with a zero gap, you can watch the light as you cut the bottom contour inside the waste block area. As you make a cut inside the vessel, the light will flow from the previously measured center of the bottom to the previously measured side wall thickness where the waste block ends. (See spots on Illustration 4) Watching the laser light move on top of the waste wood allows you to make any shape bottom you want to create. Flat bottoms, cone shape bottoms, or just a nice rounded bottom are all a piece of cake. Take care not to cut in the previously measured wall because the laser will be at the tip and not set to measure the wall again.
I manufacture the laser system to fit any boring bar unit.
Carbide Cutter Assembly
You get two big advantages with the Jamieson/Hunter Carbide Cutter. The first advantage, never sharpen again. Just twist the cutter to another razor sharp area until it wears out and put a replacement cutter on the swivel assembly. There is no grinding or sharpening this tool. Tool life is 25-30 times, even up to 100 times your expectations with quality HSS. The second advantage is the slicing, angled cut that leaves a much preferred surface behind than the original scraping cutter. It produces a finished surface that needs less sanding and less end grain fiber tear out.
You get the advantage of clean slicing cuts with the Jamieson/Hunter Carbide Cutter tool supported in the Jamieson Hollowing System. This is the best of both worlds; you get both ease and efficiency.
The Carbide Cutter Assembly comes with the 3/16 inch machined shaft, high tech nanograin Jamieson/Hunter Carbide Cutter, torex screw, torex wrench and a protective cap.
Just place the Jamieson/Hunter Carbide Cutter Assembly into your swivel tip assembly replacing the 3/16 inch HSS scraper cutter. The Carbide Cutter should be angled to the left when inserted in the swivel holder. Different then the scraper cutter, the cutting motion will always be to the left when cutting up under a high shoulder vessel. Make sure to get the waste wood out of the middle behind the shoulder of the vessel. The cutter will cut pulling toward the shoulder of the vessel when the cutter is swiveled to the left. This produces a sheering/slicing shaving rather than scraping sawdust. Try it out on the nastiest wood you can find and you will be a believer!
Jamieson/Hunter Carbide Cutter Assembly – actual size of cutter shaft is 1 ¼ inches – size of carbide cutter is 3/16 inch or Hunter #1.
- 3/16 inch X 1 ¼ long shaft
- Torx screw and Torx wrench
- Hunter #1 Nanograin Carbide Cutter
- Clean out pin
- Protective cover
DVD In-Depth Hollowing Techniques-The Easy Way DOWNLOAD
The set up and use techniques are in my DVD, In-Depth Hollowing and it gives much more detailed help for both boring bar system and laser measuring. It is 90 minutes long, produced and edited by Phil Pratt.
DVD Bowl Basic DOWNLOAD
3 Basic Elements
4 The Lathe
8 Start Between Centers
9 Bandsaw… yes or no?
10 Lathe Foot Adjustment
12 Initial Lathe Speed
13 Just Four Basic Cuts
14 Grain Orientation
15 Push Cut Introduction
16 Lathe Forces
17 Moving the Axis
19 Dressing the Wheel
20 Jamieson Grind
21 Balance Grain Orientation
23 Define Pushing Cut
24 Cut Supported Fibers
25 The Pencil Trick
26 Transfer of Power
27 Chuck Limitations
28 Prepare Concave Surface
29 Scraping Cut Defined
30 Glue Block
31 Understanding CA Glue
32 Glue-up Process
33 Design Considerations
34 Pull Cut Defined
35 Tool Rests
2 Clean Up Face
3 Shaping Back of Bowl
4 Sheer Scrape
5 Getting a Smooth Curve
6 Stay Sharp
7 Tailstock… or not?
8 Shortbed or Longbed
9 Push Cut Inside Bowl
10 Jamieson Grind Defined
11 Push Cut Bevel Support
13 Wall Thickness
14 Cut in Stages
15 Get a Clean Final Cut
16 Transition of Stages
17 Immeasurable Bottom
18 Continuous Curve
19 Sanding Considerations
20 Reversing the Bowl
21 Shaping the Foot
23 Wood Movement
24 Other Drying Methods
25 In Review